story and photos by Haley Nguyen

Obscured by decades of war, Cambodia is finally achieving its long overdue recognition as a unique and historic travel destination. Leading the charge at center stage are the ancient ruins of Angkor.

Located in northwestern Cambodia, the complex of Angkor covers an area of 81 hectares, or 77 square miles. Built between the 9th and 13th centuries, it is the world’s largest religious monument. In 1992, UNESCO listed Angkor as a World Heritage site.

My soft-spoken tour guide (and namesake) greeted me with the traditional Cambodian som pas, with palms clasped together and bowing slightly. Her extensive knowledge of history and culture kept me well informed the entire trip. From Siem Reap Airport, we approached downtown in a short 10-minute ride by auto. Upon my arrival, I was initially shocked at what looked like the Las Vegas Strip: huge and gaudy hotels (recently built) lined the main street into town. But my disappointment quickly dissipated when we passed an open-air market. Vendors and shoppers crowded around stalls of produce, fruit, and roasted whole game. Amidst the hustle-bustle of the marketplace, children hawked souvenirs and women bartered prices. And best of all, everyone was eating! The delicious aromas of street foods—grilled fish, sweet rice cooked in bamboo tubes, and flavorful curries—wafted through the air. Cambodian cuisine is similar to neighboring Thailand’s although it’s much lighter on the chili.

The main mode of transportation is the tuk-tuk (the Cambodian version of an auto rickshaw), which cruises the streets carrying locals and smiling tourists. The tuk-tuk is the ideal way to get around town. With only a covered top, passengers are shielded from the sun but can still experience the sights and sounds. Tuk-tuk fares run about US$1 to US$2 around Siem Reap, but drivers will often say, “Whatever you want to give me,” which can have a wide range of meanings, so confirm a fare before venturing out.

I stayed at Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, a charming Old World hotel with echoes of Cambodia’s colonial past. The front desk staff was courteous and efficient. This classic hotel has a French colonial feel and features a black and white motif that is very elegant and refined.

Before visting the sites, I took some time to go over my sightseeing agenda. With so many sites, I wanted to cover the most important and significant ruins, and that meant more reading about the country’s history and religion.

The Khmer are believed to be one of the most powerful and advanced civilizations between the 9th and 13th centuries. The temples of Angkor are majestic and grand. Their beauty is truly astonishing. As you walk through these ancient monuments, you are struck by the awe-inspiring art and architecture, which have Hindu and Buddhist influences.

The first site I visited was Banteay Srei, or the “Citadel of the Women,” which is located approximately 15 miles outside of Siem Reap and takes about 40 minutes by tuk-tuk on dirt roads. The ride through the countryside offers a glimpse into the life of ordinary Cambodians. Most homes are built on stilts to withstand annual flooding from the monsoon rains. Vegetation appears arid and poor. Besides tourism, there is little work for most Cambodians; selling mementos by the roadside seems to be the main trade.

We stopped at one village and learned how palm sugar is collected, cooked and poured into molds. Monkeys roamed free everywhere! Monkeys play a very important role in Khmer culture, which is largely influenced by Hindu mythology and the Ramayana epic. The bas-reliefs on the walls of Angkor Wat depict scenes from the Ramayana, including a battle scene where monkeys help Prince Rama fight the evil King Ravana. It’s no wonder the monkeys rule here! On the drive to Banteay Srei I noticed several villagers washing cows. I asked my guide about this but she wasn’t familiar with the ritual either. Along the way, we also passed a few small, empty school buildings made of concrete.

Banteay Srei is an exquisite miniature wat or temple in the heart of an immense and mysterious forest. The intricate depictions carved in pink sandstone cover the walls of this temple like tapestries. The architecture and artistic features of Banteay Srei are unique and exceptionally fine. Like most of the temples, panels are carved with scenes inspired by the Indian epic. The shrines at Banteay Srei are guarded by sculptures of mythical figures with human torsos and animal heads kneeling at the base of the stairs leading to the entrances. Figures of male and female divinities standing in recessed niches at the corners are perfect in proportion, balance, and artistic style.