Have Bike, Will Travel [p.4]

In Nha Trang, I took an all-day boat tour of the surrounding isles with the Green Hat Boat Tour Company. We spent the day snorkeling. Then, after a filling lunch we sang karaoke and drank limitless fruit wine—a specialty of the region. We departed in the early morning and ended the day lounging, and partially recovering, on Hon Mieu Island.

In Nha Trang, you can also become a PADI certified scuba diver at the renowned Jeremy Stein’s Rainbow Divers, the only company affiliated with National Geographic. If you’ve only got a day, try a discovery dive in the reefs of the South China Sea with a qualified diver.

Another notable hangout is Crazy Kim’s bar where a portion of the proceeds supports the fight against pedophilia on behalf of the city’s children. Here, any traveler can volunteer for an afternoon to teach English classes to area children who are out of school and sell their wares to tourists. Crazy Kim’s charity organization was surprising as I wasn’t aware that pedophilia was a problem in this part of the world. Other tourists sitting at the bar said that Nha Trang had trouble with pedophilia and that it was even more apparent in other cities in Southeast Asia, especially in coastal locales. I welcomed the small children who came by selling books and handicrafts. While I couldn’t buy everything they wanted to sell, I bargained and bought some great handmade cards and other gifts to send home.

Since I had some time, I took a bus up the winding roads to Da Lat. This university town keeps its temperatures set on “cool” for most of the year. While there, I hired a motor scooter for the afternoon and toured the area with the well-known and friendly “Easy Riders.” At night, I took a stroll around Xuan Huong Lake, and the next morning, I visited the eccentric Crazy House, designed by Mrs. Dang Viet Nga.

Leaving Da Lat or Nha Trang, you can easily bus or cycle to the small, windy beach town of Mui Ne. I cycled there to absorb the sun on the white-sand beaches. Admiring the surrounding sand dunes, I continued along Suoi Tien (Fairy Spring) trail. Mui Ne is also a good point to work your way farther along the coast, toward the Mekong Delta, or head towards Sai Gon.

My journey biking through southern Viet Nam ended as I entered the energetic sector of Pham Ngu Lao in Sai Gon. This area is attractive to travelers for its budget accommodations. The people, lights, cars, and other passersby matched my endorphin-fed state of elation. Even in my feel-good state, my mind kept flashing back to the countryside, to the sea, to the wonderful people, and to its hidden problems. The dichotomy was somehow fitting. The sights, smells, and sounds I experienced while cycling not only allowed me to touch the texture of Viet Nam’s diverse landscape, but also allowed me to get closer to the heart of a special people and culture.

Cycling through small villages into the larger cities, and up and down the country’s coastal vein is an unforgettable way to see the real Viet Nam. Miles of pedaling, breathing, sweating, clammy hands, and cramped legs are what you give. Fields of swaying rice, mouth-watering cuisine, and the friendly smiles of the Vietnamese people are what you receive.

Viet Nam bike websites:
www.ibike.org/ibike/vietnam