Have Bike, Will Travel [p.3]

In Hoi An, you can also venture to Cua Dai Beach. Tourists, who may not necessarily be cycling through Viet Nam, pedal to the beach on rented bikes or zoom along on motorbikes. Taking a break from cycling, I walked past bright green paddies. At the beach, I succumbed to the fresh fruit juices, seafood, and a relaxing seashore massage before the next day’s riding. After a hard day, you will most certainly want to indulge in the loads of sizzling appetizers and vegetarian or meat dishes scattered about town.

I decided to head to the coastal city of Nha Trang the following morning. From Hoi An, I would have to pedal for several days, about 562 miles, through the countryside and smaller towns. If you need a break or don’t have enough time during any leg of the journey, you can always take a bus or even book a cheap flight. But, reserve your plane ticket at least seven to 10 days in advance.

A busload of people flew by in a small van as it began to mist. They would arrive way before, but they wouldn’t get to see the same morning dew glistening on the blades of grass or feel the cool mist in the air from the sea. After 78 miles, the drizzle calmed. I stopped in Quang Ngai for the night.

After some hunting, I came across a few nice hotels and small eateries. I took a seat at Mimosas, which serves up a variety of goodies. I asked the young boy who served me where he went to school. In perfect English he said, “I don’t go. I work to help my family.” Eating my meal was hard after seeing how mature he was for a boy of his age. His response was so calm and final.

It was then that I questioned the huge socioeconomic gap between our countries. Why should he be deprived of going to school? Why did he have to work so hard at such a young age? Wasn’t there another way? Wouldn’t the government help him and his family?

As I sat in the restaurant with my ample time pondering the social debate in my head, I watched him go back to work. He wiped off tables and carried dishes into the back room, which was covered with a tin roof. As I left, I bid him farewell and left him a small tip.

After vivid dreams and a disturbed sleep, I rode hard for two more days, pedaling for Nha Trang. Along the way, I experienced bursts of energy that were fed by the striking surroundings. I stopped one night in Quy Nhon, and chose from a wide selection of mid-range hotels along a street that runs parallel to the ocean.

After a few days, I began to crave a big, juicy hamburger. I stumbled upon a fantastic little restaurant called Barbara’s. Barbara is a New Zealander who owns this international eatery along with the bar and budget hotel. Her accent reminded me of my roommate and his idea to venture through Viet Nam by bike. At Barbara’s, you’ll be able to store your bike under the staircase. I feasted on tacos, salad, garlic bread, smoothies and lemonade. It’s a prime place to kick back and refuel. Cyclers or backpackers alike can sleep for US$3 in the dorm-style rooms and buy or trade books from her vast collection.

From here, I decided to take Highway 1D, which connects back to Highway 1A. You will spend your time cruising between mountains, untouched beaches, and bungalows that dot the shoreline.

I arrived in Nha Trang and was surprised at the hubbub of tourists. It’s a travel hot spot for all types and ages, and offers an array of activities for the spendthrift and thrifty. It’s bike-friendly, people-friendly, and easy to navigate. If you have questions, stop by any of the tourist offices conveniently located in area hotels.