Have Bike, Will Travel [p.2]

It rained sparingly. And, when the coolness falls on the breathtaking peripheral scenery, it etches something deep in your soul. With the undulating waves to the left and the misty mountains reflecting in the rice paddies, the experience of cycling Viet Nam is a game of give and take with the elements and your own mental state.

The initial images of a poverty and war-stricken Viet Nam were powerful. But the depression instantly faded along with my misconceptions. How foolish of me to have held onto such notions of the past.

Aligning the streets were school supply shops, eateries, cafes, Internet cafes, scooter shops, hostels, hotels, postal stands, fruit and veggie vendors, and cellular phone card booths. As I walked, numerous nods and smiles gave way to a “good morning” here or a “welcome to Viet Nam” there.

Preparing for the journey that lay ahead, I bought baked bread, dragon fruit, and tangerines. I wanted to prevent preliminary starvation on the road. My food costs would be higher than most travelers since I’d be biking and using up about three times as many calories. After breakfast, I headed directly out of town along the main road, following school kids on bikes. Cham Tower was over my shoulder where the active elderly were busy with their morning exercise routines.

While biking, I soon found out I would have no trouble getting the supplies I craved, especially the glazed cinnamon rolls that I immediately grew fond of. Several signs posted revealed that there would be plenty of sleeping establishments as well. A female German cyclist whom I met in Da Nang directed me to a quaint hotel on the outskirts of town. For the equivalent of a few US dollars, one can sleep quite comfortably in Viet Nam. Amenities include a clean bed, hot shower, TV, air-conditioning, and free drinking water. Hotel staff will always greet you with a wide grin, and if you’re biking, you’ll most likely be allowed to store your muddy bike. When it comes time to clean it, don’t be surprised if you have several friendly Vietnamese offering to give you a helping hand.

Biking onward to Hoi An was a pleasant stretch. After 19 miles, the roads were dusted with fine brown, blowing sand. Through my shirt, I could feel the cool breeze and sensed the ocean nearby. The roadside towns along the way provided me with the important rations—plenty of water along with more cinnamon rolls. Twenty-two miles later, I had finally reached the small bustling town of Hoi An.

It’s feasible to start your cycling of Viet Nam from Hoi An if you don’t have as much time to cycle the entire southern coast. The bus from Hue to Hoi An costs US$6 and takes roughly four hours. You’ll arrive directly at the biker-friendly Green Field Hotel. Here, air-conditioning, hot water, pool, and free use of the Internet will cost you US$5 per night. With a restaurant on the premise and free cocktails by the pool at sunset, it’s a true cycler’s retreat.

The providential district overseeing Hoi An labeled this year its “National Tourism Year” and rightfully so. Hoi An is known as a sort of “Milan of Southeastern Asia” for its top-quality, custom-tailored garments. You can have a pair of travel pants or a sleek ao dai made for US$10 to US$20.