Climbing Kilimanjaro [p.6]

The descent is pure skree, loose gravel. Tai skis down, skidding and sliding. I worry about him turning an ankle, but I have my own problems. My heart is feeling overly strained. Stretched tight in my chest. I think to myself, “Ah, so this is what it feels like to literally expire. I’m going to die now. If anyone asks me what this climb was like, I’ll say: “It is the most physically and mentally challenging thing I have ever done in my life; and perhaps, the most foolish.” With those thoughts, I slip, slide, and roll my way down the skree. I’ve lost all control of my legs. I have never been so exhausted. I wonder how the blisters on Tai and Jason’s feet are holding up. Michael Crichton claims to have had the dark red blood stains on his heels for years.

We all share a moment of relief, joy, and extreme fatigue in our tent. There are no words, just tears that spring forth. I’ll just tell you about mine since men don’t cry. Oh, that’s lame. We all shed some water. The porters congratulate us. We try to descend as quickly as possible over the next day and a half. My knees are gone and my heart and lungs have never felt so taxed. Jason is a little delirious. We think it’s the Diamox. His pupils are unevenly dilated.

Tai thinks he’s Meals on Wheels. He tosses food to any Tanzanian child we pass. Jason lets out a little scream as Tai is almost ambushed by a boy with a big machete. The boy was after a Snickers bar that dangled from Tai’s backpack. Saaidi looks embarrassed by the situation and sternly reprimands the boy.

We return to Moshi and embark on safaris to Ngorongoro Crater and Lake Manyara. We go to a Masai school to give away our gifts. Omari, our safari guide, tells us not to give gifts to the children on the streets because they have a problem with their school attendance. We don’t want to encourage them to skip school and stand on the street waiting for handouts from strangers. The schools will dole out these items as rewards for good students. All for the merit system, the bulk of our remaining gifts go to the Masai school.

There are 400 children aged 7-16 crammed into one room. Their principal thanks us and asks us to speak to the children. They are excited to see us. They hug and touch us. Tai gives them a pep talk about hard work and perseverance. He speaks about the power of dreaming, but we are sad at the reality of their dreams. What opportunities do they truly have to rise above this poverty? In the end, he gets choked up and we all just tell them we love them. It’s heartfelt and it’s honest. Though our paths have only crossed for that one moment in time, we love them and they are our children. We are all children of the Earth. We share this world, and we should all love each other. If you could see their faces and hear their laughter, you’d agree.

We leave Africa with empty luggage, but our hearts are full. Our camp gear has gone to our guides and porters. Personal trinkets and clothing have been handed out to the people who have touched our lives. At the airport, I’m parched; but none of us have any cash left. We’ve given everything away. Normally, I’m grumpy when I’m thirsty. On this particular night, I feel great. I know that the thirst is only temporary. I know that I am fortunate; and I know that I am blessed to know this.

On the plane, I settle into my seat and close my eyes. I dream of the smiles of the children we’ve met, of Odilia Sonza Kiravuko, of the snows of Kilimanjaro, and of the full moon shining down on us. I dream of the Great Rift Valley, of zebras wandering across the Ngorongoro Crater, and of the rains softly quenching the thirst of the land and its people. Now, months later, I still dream of Africa.

Kilimanjaro Itinerary

Friday: Rest at Springlands Hotel.

Saturday: Zara picks us up from the hotel and we drive to the beginning of the Rongai Route in northern Tanzania, near the Kenya border. The Rongai Route is less traveled and goes up the north side of the mountain as opposed to the south side. Most people take the Machame Route, so much so that it’s been dubbed the Coca-Cola Route for its popularity. We will climb approximately five hours and travel from 6400 ft. elevation to 8500 ft. We will camp at Rongai Cave also known as The First Cave.

Sunday: Climb approximately eight hours from 8500 ft. to 11,800 ft. We will camp at Kikelewa Cave, The Second Cave.

Monday: Climb approximately five hours from 11,800 ft. to 14,200 ft. Camp will be at Mawenzi Tarn.

Tuesday: Climb approximately five hours from 14,200 ft. to 15,600 ft. Camp at School Camp, base of summit. This is Kibo Hut.

Wednesday:(begin at 1:00 a.m.): Climb approximately seven hours from 15,600 ft. to 19,340 ft. We will go down on the Marangu Route, on the south side of the mountain. It should take about five hours to Horombo Huts, our last camp on the mountain.

Thursday: Descend from 12,200 ft. to 5,500 ft. to the park gate at Marangu. This should take between six to eight hours. There will be a shuttle back to the Springlands Hotel.