Ao Dai [p.5]

Le Minh Khoa represents a new crop of artists-turned-designers. As the Vera Wang of Sai Gon, his wedding ao dais are sought after by urban elites and foreigners alike. Minh Khoa's distinctive designs include the use of exotic fabrics and elegant cuts to compliment a woman's feminine characteristics.

"I strive to make my ao dai classics so that each person who wears them has a sense of pride in ownership. And though I view the ao dai as an almost perfect design, I will take risks to transform it so that my ao dai will always get delightful and curious looks," says Minh Khoa.

His 2005 collection included re-used, antique kimono fabrics to create new ao dai looks. In his recent visits to Europe, and particularly England, Minh Khoa gravitated towards the Victorian period dresses that later influenced his 2006 ao dai designs.

Honoring the Ao dai
When I think of my own experiences with the ao dai I go beyond the idea of simply looking fashionable. I feel connected to my country of origin and to a piece of my culture that represents who I am as a Vietnamese American woman. As a scholar, I was lucky enough to revisit the world of ao dai and learn from other scholars, designers, retailers, collectors, and those who have a passion for this beloved cultural symbol. I'm happy to be able to share my passion for the ao dai with the public in an exciting new exhibit.

In the first exhibition of its kind in the United States, the San Jose Museum of Quilts and Textiles in partnership with the Association for Viet Arts is pleased to present Ao dai: A Modern Design Coming of Age. The exhibit opened at the museum on April 18, 2006. It explores the evolution of ao dai as a unique, elegant and historically significant expression of beauty, fashion, grace and culture. The show features approximately 50 examples of ao dai, both historical and contemporary, drawn primarily from private collections in Viet Nam and the United States. Featured designers include Minh Hanh, Minh Khoa, Si Hoang, Le Phuong Thao, and Monica Tran, with collections from Trinh Bach, and Dr. Nam-Son Ngo-Viet.

The exhibit is co-curated by myself and Robin Treen, chief curator at the San Jose Museum of Quilts and Textiles, and will be on view through July 9, 2006. This exhibit allows us to proudly connect with Vietnamese culture while learning of the magnificent ways in which the ao dai has evolved in Viet Nam and overseas. The ao dai aptly serves as a conduit for understanding this cultural transformation.

From that first pink ao dai to my now vast and diverse collection and ongoing studies about this wonderful art form, the love affair continues.