story and photos by Haley Nguyen

"Taste it," I told my culinary students as I demonstrated how to make nuoc cham for banh xeo. Most made faces as they smelled the pungent fish sauce, but as they reluctantly sipped the dipping sauce made with fish sauce, lime, garlic, sugar and water, smiles spread across their faces. From the moment my students began to bombard me with questions about Vietnamese food and culture, I knew a culinary adventure to Viet Nam was in order. What more delectable way to answer their questions? I knew the hands-on experience and immersion in the culture, food, sights and sounds of Viet Nam would be invaluable and fun! So we set out on a 14-day culinary tour of Viet Nam.

Day 1: Ha Noi.
As we stepped outside of Noi Bai International Airport, a gush of hot air with 90 percent humidity welcomed us to Ha Noi. Our eyes were glued to the bus windows as we watched in awe the flood of people on mopeds honking nonstop. What crazy traffic! After we checked into our hotel rooms on Ly Thuong Kiet Street, we set out to Pho Mai Anh, which specializes in chicken noodle soup and is one of the most famous phôû shops in Ha Noi. Northern-style pho is distinctively different from the southern version: There are no side servings of bean sprouts or basil. Also, the broth is lighter in flavor with slivers of lime leaves mixed with green onion to give it a fresh, zesty taste. After lunch, we toured the old French quarter where mopeds line the streets. Restaurants with little stools and tables are set out on the sidewalks so people can socialize as they dine.

Day 2: Ha Long Bay.
We left in the early morning for Haï Long Bay, a famous scenic bay with thousands of unique rock formations that UNESCO named one of the World Heritage Sites. Lime-green rice fields lined both sides of the road. Young boys tending water buffalos and women wearing non la to work painted a picture of beauty, resilience, and calm acceptance. The ride from Ha Noi to Haï Long took approximately four hours. We made several stops on the roadside to view the rice harvest and local produce.

It was still daylight when we arrived; our first glimpse of Ha Long Bay was nothing short of breathless. A polite and shy hostess greeted us as we boarded a fishing junk. The two-deck boat was adequately furnished with white linen tables; a small bar was stocked with wine and soft drinks. It was time to eat once again. We feasted on fresh blue crabs and giant prawns, which were bought right off the boats of local fishermen. (French fries were also on the menu, which I suspect was for our benefit, as it is doubtful that this is part of the local fare). After lunch we went for a swim in the emerald green waters of Ha Long Bay. It was a truly magical day.

Day 3: Ha Noi.
We returned to Ha Noi the next morning. Starting with a history lesson at the Temple University, we made our way to the War Museum, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, and finally the famous water puppet show in the evening. Cooking class was held at the Culinary School for Disadvantaged Children. Our menu consisted of bun cha Ha Noi, nem ran, and che gao cam. This was an extraordinary cooking class in which young local Vietnamese interacted with American youth. It was an exhilarating experience for me to see how much young people have in common, despite their different cultures and backgrounds.

Day 4: Da Nang.
We boarded a flight in the early morning to Da Nang, a central coast city with white sand beaches that was one of the most popular R&R destinations for American soldiers during the Viet Nam War. We stayed at the Furama, a beachfront resort with unbelievable sunrises. Our afternoon was free for relaxation. We needed to regain energy for more eating and cooking, after all!

Day 5: Hoi An.
An ancient city on the central coast of Quang Nam province, and just 28 km from Da Nang, Hoi An is one of the most popular tourist attractions. Hoi An was an important commercial trading port from the 15th to 19th centuries. Its buildings and street plan reflect the influences of both indigenous and foreign architecture. We spent an entire day walking in Hoi An, where local artists live and work in mossy-clad antique houses. Coffee shops fully equipped with Internet connections attested to the fact that the world is indeed smaller than one might imagine. Children playing da cau (a Vietnamese version of hacky sack) on the streets stopped their games to sell souvenirs to tourists. Silk clothes in an array of brilliant colors fluttered in the afternoon breeze outside the numerous custom-tailor shops, enticing passers-by. We stopped at a small tailor shop for a brief consultation with the owner. Everyone in our group chose fabrics and had their measurements taken for silk pajamas, shirts, dresses, and of course, the traditional ao dai. When the shop owner assured me that everything would be ready the next afternoon, my students looked at me in disbelief. And yes, every piece of clothing arrived the next day and fitted seamlessly. Oh, somehow we also managed to squeeze in a cooking class during our time in Hoi An!